“Comandante, capitão, tio, brother… camarada, chefia, amigão, desce mais uma rodada!”
Esse verso, retirado da ótima música “Saideira”, da banda mineira Skank, eternizou uma das figuras mais icônicas da alimentação fora do lar: o garçom!
Quem está habituado a frequentar bares, restaurantes, cafeterias, pizzarias (etc) certamente tem na lembrança um desses personagens, responsáveis por compor todo o conjunto de sensoriais que acompanham uma boa refeição, um lanche ou petisco. E, quando se fala em garçom, lembramos de vários elementos que envolvem o seu trabalho. Um deles é a “gorjeta”/ taxa de serviço.
Você sabe como surgiu essa forma de gratificação – a “caixinha”, os 10% pelo serviço… –,que é paga fora do consumo?
Pois eu fiquei curioso e pesquisei. E vou trazer aqui um breve registro histórico para você acompanhar comigo e, no final deste artigo, fazer um juízo de valor sobre essa prática que, de tão comum, é parte da nossa cultura gastronômica.
A gorjeta tem muita história pra contar
Reza a lenda (ou seja, temos aqui uma história com muitas versões) que a gorjeta surgiu no seio da nobreza europeia medieval, com algumas referências aos tempos áureos do Império Romano.
Seja como for, o fato é que a taxa era uma gratificação que saía do alforje dos visitantes ricos para os empregados da residência ou do estabelecimento (restaurantes estavam tomando forma ainda, lembra?) e seu valor variava de acordo com a qualidade do serviço prestado.
Para matar a curiosidade, fui ao dicionário e descobri a origem da palavra. Achei isto: “O termo gorjeta vem do latim gurg (ou gurges), que significa ‘garganta’, uma derivação de gorja, que por sua vez corresponde a uma bebida para molhar a garganta ou à quantidade e dinheiro para pagar essa bebida. No século XVIII, a palavra era grafada como ‘gurgeta”
Pouco antes, no século XVII, as tabernas e os cafés de Londres colocavam cartazes dizendo “Para garantir a prontidão” ao lado de caixas ou tigelas nas quais os clientes podiam deixar uma moeda extra para obterem um serviço mais rápido.
Mas havia quem enxergasse nesse gesto um malefício. Nos EUA dos anos 1800 e início do século 20, o ato de dar gorjeta era visto como suborno. E mais, era um hábito condenado por tornar desigual a competição promovida pela ideologia liberal, que já moldava aquela que se tornaria a maior nação capitalista do planeta.
No entanto, a ascensão do food service, com a afirmação do restaurante (e similares) como indústria, acabou por consolidar o hábito de pagar taxa, e seus opositores hoje precisam romper uma fortíssima barreira cultural.
Só para ilustrar aqui, veja estes dados recentes da National Restaurant Association :
- US$ 324 bilhões foram gerados em restaurantes de serviço completo no ano passado
- Isso sugere que os consumidores desses restaurantes pagaram entre US$ 35 bilhões e US$ 60 bilhões caracterizados como taxa (de 10% a 20%), dependendo da porcentagem das vendas de jantares
Para os estabelecimentos, a taxa ajuda a ampliar a possibilidade de ganhos da sua equipe sem que os proprietários precisem desembolsar bônus, prêmios e outros benefícios extras.
Para os garçons, é uma renda a mais e um reconhecimento pelo seu trabalho, até mesmo um medidor de produtividade. Para os clientes, a garantia de fidelidade e excelência no atendimento de mesa e balcão.
Porém, os críticos apontam um lado obscuro: muitas casas se aproveitam da gorjeta para manter em níveis baixos os salários dos colaboradores.
Vale refletir sobre esses pontos e trazê-los para a realidade brasileira?
No Brasil, até taxa vira lei
Aqui no Brasil, a taxa é regulamentada desde 2017 por meio da Lei 13.419, que define a prática como a gratificação dada pelo cliente ao atendente do estabelecimento ou o percentual que a empresa cobra pelo serviço para ser rateado entre os seus funcionários. A legislação nacional ainda determina que esse valor seja incorporado ao salário dos garçons, o que lhes garante os direitos previstos na CLT.
A nova lei preserva o cliente, que não é obrigado a pagar gorjeta, e ainda deixa claro que é ilegal definir um valor mínimo para a taxa. Já o restaurante fica livre para sugerir um percentual sobre o serviço (normalmente, e culturalmente mais uma vez, o mais comum aqui são os 10%). Mas atenção: a casa tem de incluir o valor na nota fiscal e recolhê-lo junto com o total da conta.
Ou seja, o que surgiu como uma ação espontânea, como um gesto de gentileza ou de recompensa, tomou corpo e se enraizou de tal forma na relação cliente x prestador de serviço que foi preciso regulamentar a questão para evitar injustiças, favorecimentos e, consequentemente, problemas nos tribunais trabalhistas.
O que penso sobre isso?
Vejo da seguinte forma: Se por um lado esse fenômeno cultural tornou-se um benefício formal para o trabalhador que, principalmente no Brasil, convive com baixa remuneração quando se trata de atividades do chamado “chão de fábrica”, por outro lado perdeu-se algo que enriquecia e humanizava a relação desse trabalhador com o cliente, que era a taxa espontânea, recebida proporcionalmente à qualidade do serviço prestado.
E você? Como enxerga a questão?
JEAN PONTARA é um dos maiores especialistas em Vendas ao Food Service de todo o Brasil. Há 18 anos, ele tem criado estratégias, implantado projetos e formado equipes para Distribuidores, Atacadistas, Indústrias, Cash&Carry, Fabricantes de Equipamentos, Empresas de Tecnologia e Fundos de Investimentos, com uma experiência ímpar na área.
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